As Malvinas, de olho no futuro
Em 2017, começa a sair petróleo dos poços que estão sendo perfurados no norte das ilhas Malvinas (Falklands). No ano seguinte, é a vez do sul, onde, dizem há até três vezes mais quantidade. “O jogo vai mudar. Aí todos começarão a querer ser nossos amigos”, diz o britânico Dick Sawle, dono de um negócio de pesca na região e um dos membros da Assembleia Legislativa local. Sawle começa, nos próximos meses, um tour pelos países da América Latina, Brasil inclusive, para levar o assunto a empresas petrolíferas e conversar com os governos.
Enquanto isso, em Stanley, as transformações são visíveis. No ano passado, quando estive aqui pela primeira vez, a cidade estava bem menos preparada para receber estrangeiros. Apenas dois hotéis, com poucas acomodações, poucos bed & breakfast. Agora, o Malvina House, principal deles, reformou e aumentou suas instalações. O Waterfront, igualmente, enquanto se prepara para transformar-se em hotel de luxo. Um terceiro, o Upland Goose Hotel, que estava abandonado, agora reabre como conjunto de flats de luxo. O aeroporto da capital está sendo reformado. E a West Store, principal loja da cidade, tem cada vez mais opções de produtos industrializados e frutas. Até bananas equatorianas encontrei desta vez _as frutas sempre foram um desafio, porque encarecem muito ao virem do Chile ou, às vezes, da Inglaterra. A parte leste da cidade, que só começou a crescer nos últimos dez anos, agora possui quarteirões inteiros de casas novas.
A pergunta com a qual se defrontam os pouco menos de 3 mil habitantes é se o país deve ou não crescer em termos de população. Os locais mais tradicionais pensam que não, que isso colocaria em risco a identidade nacional, os negócios e os hábitos. Os mais progressistas, que sim, para poder pensar em universidades, indústria e até entretenimento, é preciso, definitivamente, mais gente.
Os estrangeiros, porém, seguem sendo bem recebidos. Há gente da Rússia, do Peru, da Espanha, do Chile, da França, da China, entre outras nacionalidades. A maioria vem para trabalhar na área da pesca, mas também no comércio local e nos serviços. Os salários são altos e há a possibilidade de passarem a ser cidadãos britânicos depois de alguns anos. Os benefícios são muitos. “Ninguém se mete na sua vida, é muito bom”, diz Helena Shillitoe, brasileira radicada há quase 20 anos nas Falklands, ao referir-se aos hábitos anglo-saxônicos locais.
Com o referendo da última semana, em que os ilhéus reafirmaram sua vontade de seguirem sendo britânicos, sopra um novo vento de confiança e otimismo nas Malvinas. A guerra de 1982, sempre carregada como um trauma e uma amarga lembrança, parece ir ficando cada vez mais na história e a rivalidade com a Argentina, ao contrário do que muitos pensam, não está mais nas preocupações do dia-a-dia. “Vocês, jornalistas, é que vêm até aqui perguntar o que achamos dos argentinos. Não nos preocupamos com eles todo o tempo. Agora temos de olhar para o futuro”, completa Sawle.
Falta muito para que as ilhas entrem de vez no mundo globalizado. Sem cinemas, sem livrarias, com uma das internets mais caras do mundo, os ilhéus e os visitantes sentem-se realmente isolados do planeta. Os habitantes cultivam hábitos de ilha e parecem importar-se pouco com isso, além do que compram suas roupas na Europa e livros pela Amazon. Mas não me estranha que, em um par de anos, com a chegada do petróleo avizinhando-se, a infraestrutura melhore ainda mais e, com ela, as comunicações e os investimentos. Seguramente, ouviremos falar muito das Falklands nos próximos tempos.
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