Verão em Buenos Aires

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“Parem de postar fotos de praia!!”, diz, meio desesperada, minha amiga Ana Manfrinatto, paulista residente em Buenos Aires, no Facebook. Entendo Ana perfeitamente, para os nascidos nos trópicos, e que passaram meses intermináveis no inverno portenho, ver as temperaturas beirarem os 40 graus e não poder sentir nem a mais leve brisa do mar –nem do Rio da Prata, para quem Buenos Aires inexplicavelmente dá as costas– pode ser uma verdadeira tortura.

O verão em Buenos Aires vem em boa hora, claro. O inverno aqui é cruel e terrivelmente longo. Até quem é de São Paulo, e que conhece o frio um pouco, sofre, pois não rola por aqui o nosso conhecido veranico, aquelas semanas de trégua em que as temperaturas voltam a subir e nos permitem desligar o aquecedor e chutar os cobertores (se bem que quem passou o inverno em SP neste ano não pode reclamar, as temperaturas foram saarianas).

O problema é que esperar os dias de calor em Buenos Aires tem um desenlace decepcionante. Ele vem, claro, mas, como São Paulo, a cidade não está preparada para aproveitá-lo. Primeiro, porque ninguém quer. Em meados de outubro, o portenho se vê atacado por uma espécie de epidemia e todos correm para reservar um lugar ao sol, principalmente, na disputada costa uruguaia.

Por outro lado, a cultura local do comércio é fechar tudo, como se um vírus perigosíssimo estivesse se aproximando e obrigasse a todos a entrar em quarentena. O capitalismo, no verão portenho, é relegado ao mundo da teoria. Restaurantes, bares, lojas, se não são turísticos, encerram suas atividades. No último domingo, com amigos do Brasil, demos com o nariz na porta do célebre El Obrero, na Boca, fechado por férias até 14 de janeiro. E até o lugar onde costumo mandar a roupa para lavar parou de trabalhar no dia 17 de dezembro e só volta, nada menos, que em fim de janeiro.

Depois vêm as dificuldades de infra-estrutura. Pouco arejada no centro e desolada nos bairros por conta do fim do comércio, os poucos portenhos que ficaram vão aos parques, que podem ser lindos, mas não têm boas atrações extras para a temporada e onde faltam lagos e piscinas.

Mas o pior problema são as chuvas. Em dias de “tormenta”, o lixo mal recolhido boia, o transporte coletivo colapsa e as pessoas ficam sem poder mover-se pela cidade. Também como em São Paulo, há pontos crônicos de alagamento sobre os quais as autoridades nada fazem. Ah, e a luz acaba para voltar daí a três, quatro, cinco horas.

Falta, ainda uma programação cultural apropriada, principalmente para a população de baixa renda, que não pode ir nem a Mar del Plata e está condenada à selva ardente. Festivais ao ar livre, corridas e passeios de bicicleta pelas margens do Rio, a chamada Costanera, não viriam mal.

Já os turistas, brasileiros, a maioria, ficam órfãos zanzando pela cidade desabitada, à mercê de taxistas espertalhões especialmente irritados pelas altas temperaturas. Com os mesmos amigos de São Paulo, tentando voltar para casa após ver uma exposição na Fundação Proa, tivemos de ouvir desaforos de um que não queria perder seu lugar no ponto por menos de 40 pesos (queríamos ir a uma distância mais curta). Apontou o ponto de ônibus e disse: “se não vá caminhando, eu não saio daqui”.

Há muito para ser feito pelas autoridades municipais. Também estaria bem uma mudança de cultura para receber melhor a estação mais esperada do ano. Ou, pelo menos, para conviver com ela com mais tranquilidade e menos animosidade.

Por ora, porém, o portenho segue suando e sofrendo. Ironicamente, ansiando pelo inverno, enquanto as revistas e os jornais estampam as fotos de políticos e famosos afortunados nas praias de Punta del Este.

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