Verão em Buenos Aires
“Parem de postar fotos de praia!!”, diz, meio desesperada, minha amiga Ana Manfrinatto, paulista residente em Buenos Aires, no Facebook. Entendo Ana perfeitamente, para os nascidos nos trópicos, e que passaram meses intermináveis no inverno portenho, ver as temperaturas beirarem os 40 graus e não poder sentir nem a mais leve brisa do mar –nem do Rio da Prata, para quem Buenos Aires inexplicavelmente dá as costas– pode ser uma verdadeira tortura.
O verão em Buenos Aires vem em boa hora, claro. O inverno aqui é cruel e terrivelmente longo. Até quem é de São Paulo, e que conhece o frio um pouco, sofre, pois não rola por aqui o nosso conhecido veranico, aquelas semanas de trégua em que as temperaturas voltam a subir e nos permitem desligar o aquecedor e chutar os cobertores (se bem que quem passou o inverno em SP neste ano não pode reclamar, as temperaturas foram saarianas).
O problema é que esperar os dias de calor em Buenos Aires tem um desenlace decepcionante. Ele vem, claro, mas, como São Paulo, a cidade não está preparada para aproveitá-lo. Primeiro, porque ninguém quer. Em meados de outubro, o portenho se vê atacado por uma espécie de epidemia e todos correm para reservar um lugar ao sol, principalmente, na disputada costa uruguaia.
Por outro lado, a cultura local do comércio é fechar tudo, como se um vírus perigosíssimo estivesse se aproximando e obrigasse a todos a entrar em quarentena. O capitalismo, no verão portenho, é relegado ao mundo da teoria. Restaurantes, bares, lojas, se não são turísticos, encerram suas atividades. No último domingo, com amigos do Brasil, demos com o nariz na porta do célebre El Obrero, na Boca, fechado por férias até 14 de janeiro. E até o lugar onde costumo mandar a roupa para lavar parou de trabalhar no dia 17 de dezembro e só volta, nada menos, que em fim de janeiro.
Depois vêm as dificuldades de infra-estrutura. Pouco arejada no centro e desolada nos bairros por conta do fim do comércio, os poucos portenhos que ficaram vão aos parques, que podem ser lindos, mas não têm boas atrações extras para a temporada e onde faltam lagos e piscinas.
Mas o pior problema são as chuvas. Em dias de “tormenta”, o lixo mal recolhido boia, o transporte coletivo colapsa e as pessoas ficam sem poder mover-se pela cidade. Também como em São Paulo, há pontos crônicos de alagamento sobre os quais as autoridades nada fazem. Ah, e a luz acaba para voltar daí a três, quatro, cinco horas.
Falta, ainda uma programação cultural apropriada, principalmente para a população de baixa renda, que não pode ir nem a Mar del Plata e está condenada à selva ardente. Festivais ao ar livre, corridas e passeios de bicicleta pelas margens do Rio, a chamada Costanera, não viriam mal.
Já os turistas, brasileiros, a maioria, ficam órfãos zanzando pela cidade desabitada, à mercê de taxistas espertalhões especialmente irritados pelas altas temperaturas. Com os mesmos amigos de São Paulo, tentando voltar para casa após ver uma exposição na Fundação Proa, tivemos de ouvir desaforos de um que não queria perder seu lugar no ponto por menos de 40 pesos (queríamos ir a uma distância mais curta). Apontou o ponto de ônibus e disse: “se não vá caminhando, eu não saio daqui”.
Há muito para ser feito pelas autoridades municipais. Também estaria bem uma mudança de cultura para receber melhor a estação mais esperada do ano. Ou, pelo menos, para conviver com ela com mais tranquilidade e menos animosidade.
Por ora, porém, o portenho segue suando e sofrendo. Ironicamente, ansiando pelo inverno, enquanto as revistas e os jornais estampam as fotos de políticos e famosos afortunados nas praias de Punta del Este.
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He had already spent nearly a year in exile. He used to write at stated intervals respectful and sedate letters to his father, and at last was so at home in Vassilyevskoe that when his father himself came in the summer (giving Nikolay Sergeyitch warning of his visit beforehand), the exile began of himself begging his father to let him remain as long as possible at Vassilyevskoe, declaring that a country life was his real vocation. All Alyosha’s impulses and inclinations were the fruit of an excessive, nervous impressionability, a warm heart, and an irresponsibility which at times almost approached incoherence, an extreme susceptibility to every kind of external influence and a complete absence of will. But the prince listened somewhat suspiciously to his request . . . Altogether Nikolay Sergeyitch could hardly recognize his former “friend.” Prince Valkovsky was strangely altered. He suddenly became peculiarly captious with Nikolay Sergeyitch. When they went over the accounts of the estates lie betrayed a revolting greed, a niggardliness, and an incomprehensible suspiciousness. All this deeply wounded the good-hearted Nikolay Sergeyitch; for a long time he refused to believe his senses. Everything this time was just the opposite of what had happened during the first visit, fourteen years before. This time the prince made friends with all his neighbours, all who were of consequence, that is, of course. He did not once visit Nikolay Sergeyitch, and treated him as though he were his subordinate. Suddenly something inexplicable happened. Without any apparent reason a violent quarrel took place between the prince and Nikolay Sergeyitch. Heated, insulting words were overheard, uttered on both sides. Nikolay Sergeyitch indignantly left Vassilyevskoe, but the quarrel did not stop there. A revolting slander suddenly spread all over the neighbourhood. It was asserted that Nikolay Sergeyitch had seen through the young prince’s character, and was scheming to take advantage of his failings for his own objects; that his daughter, Natasha (who was then seventeen), had ensnared the affections of the twenty-year-old boy; that the parents had fostered this attachment though they had pretended to notice nothing; that the scheming and “unprincipled” Natasha had bewitched the youth, and that by her efforts he had been kept for a whole year from seeing any of the girls of good family who were so abundant in the honourable households of the neighbouring landowners. It was asserted that the lovers were already plotting to be married at the village of Grigoryevo, fifteen versts from Vassilyevskoe, ostensibly without the knowledge of Natasha’s parents, though really they knew all about it and were egging their daughter on with their abominable suggestions. In fact, I could fill a volume with all the slander that the local gossips of both sexes succeeded in circulating on this subject. But what was most remarkable was that the prince believed all this implicitly, and had indeed come to Vassilyevskoe simply on account of it, after receiving an anonymous letter from the province. One would have thought that no one who knew anything of Nikolay Sergeyitch could believe a syllable of all the accusations made against him. And yet, as is always the case, everyone was excited, everyone was talking, and, though they did not vouch for the story, they shook their heads and . . . condemned him absolutely. Nikolay Sergeyitch was too proud to defend his daughter to the gossips, and sternly prohibited his Anna Andreyevna from entering into any explanations with the neighbours. Natasha herself, who was so libelled, knew nothing of all these slanders and accusations till fully a year afterwards. They had carefully concealed the whole story from her, and she was as gay and innocent as a child of twelve. Meanwhile the breach grew wider and wider. Busy-bodies lost no time. Slanderers and false witnesses came forward and succeeded in making the prince believe that in Nikolay Sergeyitch’s long years of stewardship at Vassilyevskoe he had by no means been a paragon of honesty and, what is more, that, three years before, Nikolay Sergeyitch had succeeded in embezzling twelve thousand roubles over the sale of the copse; that unimpeachable evidence of this could be brought before the court, especially as he had received no legal authorization for the sale from the prince, but had acted on his own judgement, persuading the prince afterwards of the necessity of the sale, and presenting him with a much smaller sum than he had actually received for the wood. Of course all this was only slander, as was proved later on, but the prince believed it all and called Nikolay Sergeyitch a thief in the presence of witnesses. Nikolay Sergeyitch could not control himself and answered him with a term as insulting. An awful scene took place. A lawsuit immediately followed. Nikolay Sergeyitch, not being able to produce certain documents, and having neither powerful patrons nor experience in litigation, immediately began to get the worst of it. A distraint was laid on his property. The exasperated old man threw up everything and resolved to go to Petersburg to attend to his case himself, leaving an experienced agent to look after his interests in the province. The prince must soon have understood that he had been wrong in accusing Nikolay Sergeyitch. But the insult on both sides had been so deadly that there could be no talk of reconciliation, and the infuriated prince exerted himself to he utmost to get the best of it, that is, to deprive his former steward of his last crust of bread.
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