Tracey Emin em Buenos Aires
Saiu hoje, na Ilustrada, uma matéria que fiz com a artista britânica Tracey Emin, 50, que está de passagem pela Argentina esses dias, abrindo a exposição “How it Feels”, no Malba (Museu de Arte Latinoamericana de Buenos Aires). Emin, expoente do grupo YBA (Young British Artists), traz pela primeira vez suas obras para um museu do continente.
A entrevista foi realizada na sacada do Malba, numa tarde meio instável de primavera, com muito vento e temperatura a 21 graus. Emin não se importou, “o clima aqui é ótimo, a primavera é muito linda”, disse, de vestido e botas, apontando para as árvores floridas de Palermo Chico. A exposição em Buenos Aires fica em cartaz até o dia 25 de fevereiro de 2013.
Leia, abaixo, a íntegra da conversa.
Folha – É muito diferente expor num museu ou numa galeria?
Emin – Muito! Sempre expus muito em galerias, mas o museu te dá uma sensação de prestígio muito grande, mostram que você é importante. E eu já tenho 50 anos, está acontecendo meio tarde na minha vida (risos).
Folha – Os filmes reunidos em “How it Feels” têm mais ou menos 20 anos.
Emin – Sim, tudo nessa exposição é histórico. Os filmes são antigos, os temas também, me vejo na tela e é como uma versão antiga de mim mesma. Mas foi o curador (o canadense Phillip Larratt-Smith) quem definiu esse recorte e eu entrei na dele.
Folha – Qual a importância dos filmes na sua obra?
Emin – Eu fazia muitos filmes nessa época, fim dos anos 90, andava sempre com uma super-8 ou algum outro equipamento barato à mão. Depois me aproximei da indústria do cinema e tudo foi me parecendo odioso. Não gostei das pessoas, do modo como opera essa indústria, e me afastei. Mas ainda faço alguns filmes de arte, ou mais pop, acabei de fazer um, aliás, que foi ao ar pela MTV.
Folha – “How it Feels” narra, basicamente, uma experiência sua de aborto. Primeiro, numa clínica, em que não dá certo, depois, um aborto natural. Fazer o filme fez o processo ser menos doloroso?
Emin – Sim, muito menos doloroso. Mas deixe eu esclarecer, antes de mais nada, “How it Feels” é um filme sobre o fracasso, mais do que sobre o aborto. Eu queria entender como uma mulher faz um aborto, vai trabalhar, finge que não aconteceu nada, e depois isso volta para ela de alguma forma no futuro. Eu acho que os abortos teriam de ser mais discutidos, entre casais, na família, na sociedade, o sentimento que vai crescendo na mulher depois que ela o pratica é horrível. Mas ao mesmo tempo eu não me arrependo, são situações em que não há alternativa, eu não tinha alternativa.
Fazer o filme e depois vê-lo muitas vezes fez com que eu me livrasse da dor. Fiz sessões numa galeria de Londres por algumas semanas, mostrava o filme duas vezes por dia. Vi mais de 30 vezes. Até o dia em que o assisti e não senti mais nada.
Folha – Como eram as sessões?
Emin – Eu armava um clima. Depois que todos entravam, fechava tudo, mas deixava uma janela para a rua aberta. Era perto da estação de Waterloo, em Londres, havia muito movimento. Então as pessoas ouviam os ruídos que há no filme enquanto estou falando e também os da rua, daquele exato momento, e a atmosfera ia ficando claustrofóbica, algumas pessoas desmaiavam.
Folha – E como você se sente hoje com relação a outros trabalhos antigos seus, como “The Bed”?
Emin – Eu a revi outro dia, em Frankfurt. Entrei nela outra vez depois de muitos anos. Foi estranho, porque ela tem o cheiro do meu passado. Como as camisinhas e os tampões ensanguentados são transportados em sacos plásticos, eles mantêm o cheiro. Não uso mais tampões, porque não fico menstruada, nem uso camisinhas, porque não faço sexo. É como uma cápsula do tempo do meu passado.
Folha – Como foi sua passagem pelo Brasil no fim dos anos 90?
Emin – Espero que o Brasil tenha mudado muito. Fiquei chocada com os níveis de pobreza e com a diferença entre as pessoas muito ricas e as muito pobres em São Paulo. Além disso me senti insegura, assustada, me pareceu uma cidade hostil. Já no Rio, passei dez dias e choveu o tempo todo. Me impressionei com o frio, era dezembro e eu tinha de andar agasalhada. Ou seja, não foi a melhor das imagens e definitivamente não foi a imagem mais comum que as pessoas têm do Brasil. Espero que dessa vez seja diferente.
Folha – Qual a sua relação hoje com sua cidade-natal, Margate?
Emin – Acabo de fazer uma retrospectiva de minha obra lá e fiquei muito feliz, pois foram vê-la mais de 170 mil pessoas. A população da cidade é de 60 mil, ou seja, muita gente foi à cidade só para isso. É mais do que consigo reunir às vezes em Londres. Me alegrou porque sei que essas pessoas foram para lá e consumiram café, fish & chips, hotéis, e isso movimenta a economia local. É uma cidade muito pequena, com muitos problemas e carências. Fico feliz de ajudar um pouco e perceber que as pessoas recebem a arte como uma coisa boa. E ainda carreguei a tocha olímpica pela cidade quando ela passou por lá. Isso foi incrível!! (risos).
Folha – Quando você começou a ter sucesso, nos anos 90, a Inglaterra era outra, era a Inglaterra de Tony Blair e do britpop. O que mudou com um governo conservador agora com relação às artes?
Emin – Tony Blair nos decepcionou muito. Eu esperava mais, os artistas esperavam mais, e não aconteceu. Hoje estou num ponto da minha vida em que tenho de votar no que é bom para mim, então votei nos conservadores. Os conservadores se interessam mais pelas artes, as valorizam mais. Sei que é feio dizer isso porque supostamente os artistas têm de ser sempre de esquerda e votar nos trabalhistas, mas hoje eu não vejo nenhum sentido em votar nos trabalhistas. São os primeiros a achar que as artes não são importantes e cortar o apoio a elas se há uma crise.
Folha – Como vê o mercado de arte na Inglaterra hoje?
Emin – As artes estão muito bem posicionadas na sociedade, diferentemente do que acontece nos EUA. Na Inglaterra, elas têm espaço nos jornais, nos meios, são notícia. Uma notícia sobre um artista pode estar na primeira página de um jornal. Nos EUA isso nunca acontece.
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Lady Griz hand Selvig 800th career win with 68 61 victory over PortlandGriz up to fifth in TSN poll, highest ranking of seasonBig Sky honors Sac State QB SafronNorth Dakota football coach firedSince 1897, the Cat Griz rivalry has captivated the stateFamily health: Prepare yourself and your vehicle for winter drivingFitness calendarBirths for Tuesday, November 19Angler with 4th place total takes Fall Mack Days fishing tournament titleWestern Montana hunters get help from fresh snow, rutIf the name Grace Coddington is familiar, you’ve probably seen the 2009 documentary film “The September Issue” about Vogue magazine’s Editor in Chief Anna Wintour, the most feared and revered woman in fashion. Now Coddington, the longtime creative director of Vogue, has her own star vehicle, an engaging memoir titled “Grace,” co written with Michael Roberts. 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It chronicles Coddington’s 50 years in the industry, first as a model, then as a fashion editor for British Vogue and finally as creative director for American Vogue, with lots of juicy anecdotes about designers, photographers, celebrities and models.She compares the fashion world then and now and offers clues into her relationship with Wintour. She’s also open about her private life, including details about failed marriages, the tragic death of her sister Rosemary and her 30 year romance with French hairstylist Didier Malige. She tells colorful stories behind many of the fashion shoots she has styled, but I do wish she had offered more insight into her role in the creative process.Coddington begins by painting a picture of her upbringing as romantic as any photo shoot. For her first 18 years, her home was the Trearddur Bay Hotel on the island of Anglesey off the coast of North Wales. “Although it was bleak, I saw beauty in the bleakness.” When she wasn’t outdoors, she amused herself by looking at picture books, reading fairy tales and, yes, studying the pages of Vogue magazine. As a teen, she went to a convent school and has vivid memories of the nuns roller skating on the rooftop, “flapping about surreally in their robes like crows on wheels.”At 18, she moved to London to attend a modeling course advertised in Vogue. The fashion world was much different in 1959. Coddington had to learn how to apply her own makeup and style her own hair, because makeup artists and hairdressers specializing in photo shoots were nonexistent. A meeting with photographer Norman Parkinson led to her first modeling job running naked through the woods for an arty fashion catalog.Coddington became an overnight success. “I was a character, rather than a pretty model, and I suppose that’s exactly what I look for in the girls I now select to put in American Vogue the ones who are quirky looking.”She earned the nickname “The Cod” (to Jean Shrimpton’s “The Shrimp”), danced the twist on Mary Quant’s catwalk and became a muse to Vidal Sassoon, who created his famous five point cut on Coddington. Her modeling career was derailed for two years by a car accident, which scarred her left eyelid. But eventually things picked up again, and she settled into life in 1960s swinging London and Paris, hanging out with a fast crowd that included Michael Caine, Jane Birkin, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones.Her fashion editing career coincided with the beginning of her relationship with Michael Chow and the opening of his glamorous restaurant Mr. Chow, which attracted a starry crowd. “Naturally, we were forever being photographed at home, draped among our symbols of ‘with it ness’ as one of London’s most happening couples; him, the cool young restaurateur, nonchalantly swinging in a hammock hung from the minstrel’s gallery and me, the sophisticated style maker, perkily sitting cross legged atop a giant pop art version of a Campbell’s soup can.”At the height of the bohemian 1970s, she dyed her hair with henna and permed it (it would stay the same for much of the next 40 years), dressed almost exclusively in Yves Saint Laurent, had a fling with a Vietnamese photographer and spent her evenings at Club Sept in Paris. Coddington worked with the who’s who of fashion. She shot Anjelica Huston with photographer David Bailey and Pat Cleveland with Helmut Newton.When Bea Miller, who had edited British Vogue for 22 years, retired, Coddington interviewed for the job but says she knew deep down she wasn’t suited for it and thought that Wintour, then the creative director of American Vogue, should get it.Wintour did get it. Two days into her editorship, she invited Coddington to a screening of the racy film “Betty Blue.” The two sat in dead silence through the opening sequence, a vivid five minute sex scene.”Anna was rigid and unmoving. No sign of any emotion at all,” Coddington writes. “I then realized how much significance Anna places on willpower trumping feelings.”In 1988, when Wintour was appointed editor in chief at American Vogue, Coddington asked to join her. Coddington’s narrative style fashion features and travelogues, a sampling of which appear in the book, became the heart and soul of the magazine, even as its pages became increasingly taken over by celebrities. Through her visual canvases, she interpreted the New Romantic period, grunge and the South Beach blinged out 1990s, and persuaded superstar designers Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs and others to play roles in a shoot based on “Alice in Wonderland.”She sums up her creative process this way: “For me, one of the most important aspects of my work is to give people something to dream about, just as I used to dream all those years ago as a child looking at beautiful photographs.”The book ends with a chapter on then and now. “Fashion has changed so much in my lifetime,” Coddington writes. “Today, I find myself at the collections, asking, ‘Who are all these people?’ Sometimes I think I’m the last remaining person who comes to the shows for the pleasure of seeing the clothes.”At 71, she seldom wears makeup and doesn’t socialize much. But her attempt in the last 100 pages to distance herself from the term “fashionista” is a bit of a stretch. Clearly, Coddington has led a most charmed life. 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a memoir of fashion dreamer’s life in vogue
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