Ateneo, cem anos de livros
Existem alguns hits entre os brasileiros que visitam Buenos Aires. Além das tradicionais visitas às casas de carne, às compras e ao tango, nossos turistas adoram ir ao Malba para ver o “Abaporu” e à livraria Ateneo, na Santa Fe. Quando a tela de Tarsila do Amaral está viajando, há gente que se revolta e “chama o gerente”, faz reclamações e se indigna, segundo me conta a assessora de imprensa do museu. Com relação à livraria, ela é sempre lembrada entre as recomendações aos viajantes e identificada com o perfil culto e intelectualizado da capital argentina.
Na última semana, a Ateneo, que é também uma cadeia de livrarias e uma editora, celebrou seus 100 anos com festa para convidados e show. A história do empreendimento é bem particular e acompanhou as transformações de Buenos Aires nas últimas décadas.
Foi fundada em 1912, por um imigrante espanhol chamado Pedro García. Mais que um empresário e integrante de uma família de livreiros, García lançou um selo com um catálogo de clássicos e começou a impulsionar atividades paralelas na livraria, cujo primeiro endereço foi no centro.
As jornadas, chamadas de “La Primavera de las Letras”, reuniam nada menos que Jorge Luis Borges, Bioy Casares, Virginia e Silvina Ocampo, Mujica Lainez e Leopoldo Marechal. Anos depois, dariam origem à Feria del Libro de Buenos Aires, hoje um mega evento anual do porte das nossas bienais do livro.
Durante a Guerra Civil espanha e o franquismo, o selo Ateneo abrigou autores e editores proibidos na Europa, que buscavam a Argentina para veicular suas ideias e produtos. Os filhos de García, Pedro e Eustasio, mantiveram o negócio após a morte do pai, em 1948, e depois fundiram a livraria com o grupo Yenny.
Hoje, além da livraria conhecida dos brasileiros, na Santa Fe, a Ateneo tem mais três endereços em Buenos Aires, um na avenida Juramento e dois na calle Florida, além de 45 lojas espalhadas pelo país. A da Santa Fe, que funciona onde antes havia um grande teatro, já foi eleita a segunda mais bonita pelo jornal “The Guardian”, atrás apenas da holandesa Boekhandel Selexyz Dominicanen.
Buenos Aires é uma cidade muito literária, e nomear apenas a Ateneo é quase uma injustiça. As opções cruzam os bairros e incluem desde lojas-butique de Palermo, como a Eterna Cadencia e a Libros del Pasaje, até os famosos sebos da Corrientes. Ainda assim, é de se comemorar que um país cuja história independente tem 200 anos possua uma livraria em boa forma, com lojas em todo o país e um selo ainda muito atuante.
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