Dia dos “kelpers”

Sylvia Colombo

O fim da Guerra das Malvinas completa 30 anos amanhã, deixando um saldo de 649 mortos do lado argentino, 255 do lado britânico e três vítimas fatais “kelpers” (naturais das ilhas). O conflito acabou definitivamente com as chances de a Argentina recuperar essas ilhas, que se encontram a 500 km de seu território. Os britânicos fizeram um imenso investimento para que se tornassem independentes economicamente através da pesca, mantendo-as politicamente integradas a seu território. Nesse meio tempo, os “kelpers” ganharam voz e hoje fazem-se ouvir, expressando a vontade de continuar pertencendo ao Reino Unido.

Quando visitei o arquipélago, em fevereiro, encontrei uma sociedade pacata, bastante low profile, gente simpática, acolhedora, ainda que com uma visão um tanto provinciana do mundo, o que não é de se estranhar, com a ausência de espaços essenciais como cinemas e livrarias. Por mais que queiram mudar de assunto, a guerra foi o único grande evento que ocorreu em sua história, e esse trauma marca tanto os que passaram por ela como os que nasceram depois do conflito.

A impressão que os habitantes do arquipélago deixam no visitante é positiva. Nesse aniversário do fim da guerra, aproveito para lembrar alguns “kelpers” que ficaram na minha memória.

Nas ilhas Malvinas, os telefones têm apenas cinco dígitos, e todos atendem falando seu primeiro nome. É um dos lugares mais fáceis do mundo para se ter acesso às pessoas. Vários entrevistados vinham pessoalmente ao meu hotel depois que eu os contatava, mesmo que eu relutasse e insistisse para que não saíssem de suas casas e escritórios, que eu podia ir até eles. Em dois ou três dias, já era possível entender quais são as famílias mais antigas e mais conhecidas, no quarto, já aprendi o nome dos filhos e algumas fofocas de namoros e casamentos, no quinto, já cumprimentava a todos na rua.

Um dos personagens mais memoráveis que conheci foi Helena Shilitoe, uma mineira de Três Corações, radicada nas ilhas há mais de vinte anos. Falando português com sotaque mineiro misturado com inglês, Helena e seu namorado, Roger, estão entre os anfitriões mais acolhedores do local. Sem saber bem quem eu era, mas só pelo fato de ser brasileira, me levou à sua casa, me contou sua vida e me ofereceu alojamento. Helena adora o Reino Unido, mas teve dois filhos “kelpers” que não querem abandonar o arquipélago. “Então eu vou ficando”, resumiu.

Outra figura interessante é Patrick Watts. Mais arisco e muito agressivo com os argentinos, foi o DJ da invasão. Trabalhava na rádio local e narrou o desembarque dos invasores, em 2 de abril de 1982. Os soldados argentinos, depois, passaram a frequentar o estúdio. Watts hoje é comentarista de futebol e guia turístico e leva os visitantes para visitar os locais onde houve batalha. Com ele, fui a Mount Longdon, Tumbledown e Wireless Ridge. Detalhista, ele descreve locais onde morreram soldados ingleses pelo nome, contesta informações que estão em placas oficiais e esconde, em alguns desses lugares, atrás de pedras, objetos de cozinha usados pelos soldados que ficaram abandonados pelo tempo. Quando estávamos no alto do Mount Longdon, já enfrentando um vento arrasador, eis que começa a cair sobre nós uma tempestade. Minha primeira reação foi começar a correr para descer a montanha. Ele me segurou e disse: “Você vai cair. É melhor esperar passar, vai durar 10 minutos”. Não acreditei muito no princípio, mas ele apontou a nuvem, calculou o vento e cravou. “Vivo aqui há 40 anos, sei quanto tempo leva para uma nuvem de chuva assim passar pela minha cabeça.”. De fato, 10 minutos depois, parou de chover e pudemos descer.

Com Daniel Biggs, treinador de futebol e membro da milícia “kelper”, força armada que ajuda o exército britânico, visitei os cemitérios de Darwin e San Carlos, onde estão os mortos argentinos e britânicos, respectivamente. “Sou Daniel, nasci um ano depois da guerra, mas li muitos livros”, disse ao apresentar-se, tentando qualificar-se como guia. De fato, conhece muitas passagens, mas, diferentemente de Watts, que as viveu, Daniel deixa claro que as tirou de leituras que exaltavam os heróis ingleses. Na tumba de um capitão que morreu de uma forma suicida para salvar seu regimento, em Goose Green, se emocionou e quase chorou. Quando estávamos perto das lápides argentinas, em Darwin, ficamos os dois em silêncio ouvindo o barulho que os terços faziam ao chocarem-se com as sepulturas de pedra. “Você entende por que esses meninos morreram?”, me perguntava. “Como pode um governo mandar garotos para a morte?”.

Alex Olmedo é chileno e dono do Waterfront, um dos dois hotéis importantes das ilhas. Seu estilo espalhafatoso, falante e carinhoso destoa dos circunspectos locais. No arquipélago há mais de 20 anos, fala inglês perfeitamente e é cidadão britânico. Trabalha no “verão” e na “primavera”, e foge para a Europa no inverno. Como tudo nas Malvinas é muito caro, devido ao isolamento, seus preços não são amenos, e ele, assim como todos os habitantes, tem dinheiro para passar meses descansando longe dali. Alex é a figura mais doce das ilhas. Cozinha muito bem e tem um gosto pelos rituais da mesa não compartilhado pelos pacatos e ingleses ilhéus. Um restaurante moderno e de comida internacional que tentou abrir ali faliu rapidamente. Alex se envolve com a história de cada hóspede. Ao saber que era jornalista, me ajudou a marcar entrevistas e até a me localizar quando chamavam por mim no hotel e eu não estava (um dia, até me achou na piscina do ginásio local). Como visitei as Malvinas na mesma época em que o príncipe William estava ali, Alex brincava comigo todos os dias: “E aí, conseguiu entrevistar o príncipe hoje?”.

Já John Fowler é uma espécie de sábio local. Jornalista do “Penguin News”, esse inglês mora nas ilhas há muitos anos e diz gostar da ventania constante que há ali. Está sempre sorrindo, apesar de ter talvez a lembrança mais amarga de todos os “kelpers”. Sua casa foi bombardeada durante a guerra, e nela estavam três mulheres que foram as únicas vítimas civis do conflito. “Eu fiz uma barricada para nos defendermos, mas não adiantou nada. Lembro de uma delas segurando uma xícara de chá um momento antes da explosão”, contou-me.

Amanhã, os “kelpers” comemoram o fim da guerra e sua “liberação”. Independente de quem poderia ter tido a razão sobre a quem pertenciam as ilhas no passado remoto, hoje há um fato que não se pode mudar. Os habitantes têm uma vida e uma história familiar ali, em alguns casos muito mais antiga do que muitas linhagens que estão na América Latina. É impossível tirar isso deles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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