Literatura e contradições de Cartagena
A última vez em que estive aqui em Cartagena foi durante a rodagem desse filme, em 2007. “Amor nos Tempos do Cólera”, um clássico do colombiano Gabriel García Márquez, foi levado às telas pelo diretor Mike Newell (“Quatro Casamentos e um Funeral”), com Javier Bardem, Giovanna Mezzogiorno e Fernanda Montenegro no elenco.
A cidade costeira não mudou muito. Cartagena possui uma mágica, uma grandiosidade, que a acompanham desde sua longínqua fundação, ainda no comecinho da colonização espanhola, em 1533. O calor caribenho, os prédios coloniais, a música que soa alto nas lojas e as casas de portas constantemente abertas fazem lembrar nossa Salvador. A capital baiana, porém, surgiu um pouco depois, em 1549.
Cartagena foi um dos portos mais importantes da América e resistiu a ataques de piratas e invasores ingleses, franceses e holandeses, fechando-se dentro de impressionantes muros que seguem de pé. A cidade é também um dos cenários mais famosos da obra de Gabo. E quem leu seus livros não tem como não relacionar as construções e os tipos que vemos nas ruas com os cenários e personagens de suas obras.
Em Cartagena, Gabo passou pouco tempo. Chegou como um estudante, em 1948, que deixara Bogotá depois do “Bogotazo” _período de violentos protestos que ocorreram após o assassinato do líder popular Jorge Eliecér Gaitán. Na cidade costeira, Gabo recuperou a tranquilidade perdida na capital e começou a publicar contos e crônicas num jornal.
As ruas e cantos da cidade ficaram na imaginação do escritor, e ele os transplantou aos romances. A boa notícia é que seguem praticamente intactos. É o caso da praça Fernández de Madrid, onde passa parte da ação do romance mencionado. Ontem, ela estava tomada por senhores que descansavam no fim da tarde abafada e olhavam com condescendência os turistas europeus que desdobravam mapas para entender onde estavam. As calçadas do centro continuam sendo o mercado informal aberto de doces e frutas coloridas que foi cenário de encontros entre Florentino Ariza e Fermina Daza, os protagonistas de “Amor nos Tempos do Cólera”.
Poderíamos pensar que o tempo não passou, até que observamos os ruidosos vendedores de chamadas de celular _isso mesmo, sujeitos que alugam aparelhos para ligações avulsas_ que se multiplicam a cada esquina e são avidamente disputados.
Também segue intocada a plaza Bolívar, outro cenário frequente das histórias do autor. Já o Santa Clara, que foi convento e hospital e inspirou “Do Amor e Outros Dêmonios” é hoje um sofisticado hotel da rede Sofitel.
Cartagena oferece ao visitante a opção de imaginar de forma viva diversos tempos de sua história. Se não é o fim do século 19 e começo do 20 da novela de García Márquez, são os tempos coloniais, que permanecem em tantos detalhes, da arquitetura aos charmosos nomes das ruas: “calle Estanco del Tabaco”, “calle la Cochera del Gobernador”, “calle la Reculada del Ovejo”.
Ontem, flagrei um jovem guia mirim local contando, em inglês e para um público de viajantes nórdicos, o episódio do cerco dos ingleses de 1741. Nessa ocasião, as forças espanholas de defesa da cidade resistiram e expulsaram os britânicos, numa ação violenta que resultou em mais de oito mil mortos.
Sem muita pausa, o menino prosseguiu para contar, com ar muito orgulhoso, que Cartagena também tinha sido um dos primeiros territórios da América a declarar independência da Espanha, já em 1811. A cidade cairia de novo nas mãos dos ex-colonizadores, só se libertando definitivamente em 1821. Mesmo assim, o garoto não deixava por menos: “Cartagena deu um exemplo para o resto da Colômbia, que nunca tinha dado muita bola para nós que somos da costa”.
A cidade amuralhada, porém, guarda suas contradições. Durante o dia vemos vendedores barulhentos, gente simples caminhando apressada para o trabalho e alguns mendigos, reflexo da pobreza de um centro populoso, com mais de 1 milhão de habitantes. Já à noite, quando essa população se retira para os bairros mais afastados, onde vive, se percebe quem são os verdadeiros donos dos casarões. Estrangeiros, gente de dinheiro, que parecem ter substituído muitos dos habitantes tradicionais. Saem às varandas e ocupam restaurantes e galerias chiques.
Muitos casarões são hoje praticamente só fachadas e basta uma olhadela pelo vidro, do lado de fora, para notar. Os ambientes internos estão totalmente reformados, com piscinas, saunas e toda uma reformulação da arquitetura original interna. Para não falar nos hotéis-boutique, que se multiplicam rapidamente pela cidade. Pode-se criticar essa “limpeza” e modernização do casario, como o próprio Gabo já o fez. Mas é fato também que a cidade parece mais limpa e as fachadas estão bem cuidadas, por conta da natureza dessa ocupação.
É difícil não ser nostálgico ao visitar Cartagena, uma cidade que é história em estado puro. Mas seus problemas urbanísticos atuais são graves e permitem pensar nas contradições de muitas cidades latino-americanas.
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